Direttissima

Czech Republic | Českomoravská vrchovina | Žďárské vrchy | Oldříšské skály | Oldříšská plotna (Janelův lom)

Rock Climbing

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Overview
Rules
Location
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Overview

Grade: 6+

Climbing 'Direttissima' in Oldříšská Plotna (Janelův lom) is a challenging and rewarding experience. This classic route, graded 6+, follows a direct line up the imposing slab of Janelův lom. The rock is typically solid, but often demands precise footwork and confident movement. Protection is mostly provided by bolts, but some sections may require supplementing with your own gear, depending on your comfort level. The climb is known for its sustained difficulty, with minimal resting opportunities, especially on the crux sections. Be prepared for a physical and mental test, demanding good technique and endurance. The views from the top, overlooking the surrounding landscape, offer a well-deserved reward for conquering this demanding route. It's recommended to check current route conditions and recent reports before attempting the climb.

Rules

Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area
- Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves)
- The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice:
- Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes
- Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration
- Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration
- Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration

Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors.
OVK: first ascents are prohibited