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Overview
Grade 5
Total Time
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Climbing 'Strakova spára' (translated as 'Strak's Crack') at Oldříšská plotna, also known as Janelův lom, is a classic and enjoyable grade 5 climb. This route is located in a beautiful and historically rich climbing area. The 'plotna' (slab) is known for its smooth, grey rock and delicate moves. 'Strakova spára' typically follows a distinct crack line up the face, offering relatively secure holds and good protection opportunities, though placing gear in the sometimes shallow crack can require some finesse. The route's difficulty is manageable for intermediate climbers and offers a satisfying sense of accomplishment upon reaching the top. Expect a mix of face climbing and crack technique. The views from the top are often rewarding, providing a panorama of the surrounding landscape. Overall, 'Strakova spára' is a great choice for experiencing the unique character of Oldříšská plotna.
Rules

Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area - Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves) - The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice: - Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes - Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration - Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration - Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors. OVK: first ascents are prohibited

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Author

Ladislav Straka

V. Straková

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