Overview
Last updated 2024-03-26
Grade 7-
Climbing season
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Difficulty
7-
Rock Climbing
Climbing 'Kouzelný balet' in Oldříšská plotna is a memorable experience. This route, graded 7- (UIAA), requires a good mix of technical slab skills and finger strength. The 'Janelův lom' quarry provides a beautiful backdrop, although the rock can be a bit polished in places due to its popularity. The crux likely involves delicate footwork and precise hand placements on the smooth, slightly overhanging section. It demands careful reading of the rock and a calm, deliberate approach. Successfully topping out feels like a graceful dance, living up to the route's name 'Magical Ballet'. It's a great climb for anyone looking to push their grade on slab and enjoy a scenic climbing spot.
Rules
Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area - Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves) - The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice: - Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes - Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration - Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration - Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors. OVK: first ascents are prohibited
Žďár Hills PLA – some crags lie in nature reserves with restricted climbing. Check the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.
Weather forecast
Live 3-day weather forecast for this place and an estimate of whether the rock is dry enough to climb today, updated every hour.
Current conditions
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