Overview
Last updated 2024-03-26
Grade 4
Climbing season
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Difficulty
4
Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay
Start 1m to the right of the left corner of the wall. Over a smooth block or more easily via a right-hand corner under an overhanging corner, around it traverse diagonally left past the edge, up the wall and sharp edge to a small pulpit (belay). From there directly up over a massive overhang and along ledges under the roof. Over it up and left to a narrow ledge and from it somewhat to the right over a small overhang to a small platform just below the summit. A beautiful, airy route, the most impressive on Drátník. Upper half J. Foltánek, M. Zavřel 1960.
Variant: 4
To the pulpit directly through the middle of the smooth wall.
F. Roučka-V. Štefánek 1974
Variant: 4
To the pulpit directly through the middle of the smooth wall.
F. Roučka-V. Štefánek 1974
Rules
Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area - Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves) - The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice: - Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes - Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration - Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration - Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors. OVK: first ascents are prohibited
Nature protection: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Protection Document: Decision 2016.pdf, OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy authority
Žďár Hills PLA – some crags lie in nature reserves with restricted climbing. Check the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.
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