Overview
Grade: 7-
Total time: 3 hrs
Climbing time: 2 hrs
Approach time: 30 mins
Exit time: 30 mins
Show topo 
Length: 160m
Rope Length: 60m
Quickdraws: 10
Climbing the "Schmelchenwand" (7-) on Penkenjoch is a memorable experience. The route itself offers a good mix of technical climbing with some powerful moves, demanding precision and careful footwork. The rock is generally solid, although some sections require checking for loose holds. The exposure is significant, adding to the thrill and providing breathtaking views of the surrounding Zillertal Alps. The climb is relatively well-protected with bolts, but bringing a few quickdraws and perhaps a small selection of cams for added security is recommended, especially if you're not entirely comfortable at the grade. The approach is fairly straightforward, and the descent is typically done by rappelling. Overall, "Schmelchenwand" is a rewarding climb that offers a great introduction to multi-pitch climbing in the Austrian Alps, providing a good test for climbers aiming to progress to harder routes.
