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Smer bratov Ferigo - Piccolo Mangart

Slovenia | Julian Alps | Piccolo Mangart

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Overview

Grade: 6+

Total time: 4 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 30 mins

Exit time: 20 mins

Show topo Route topo

Length: 255m

Rope Length: 55m

Quickdraws: 10

The 'Smer bratov Ferigo' on Piccolo Mangart is a legendary alpine rock climb in the Julian Alps, graded 6+ (UIAA). It is renowned for its incredible exposure, excellent rock quality, and continuous, challenging climbing. The route ascends the imposing face of Piccolo Mangart, offering breathtaking views and a true sense of alpine adventure.

Rated 6+, it demands solid multi-pitch climbing experience, good physical condition, and a confident lead climber. The climbing is sustained, with often airy traverses and powerful cruxes that test both technique and endurance. It's a classic that provides a deeply rewarding experience, pushing climbers to their limits in a magnificent setting.

Descent typically involves rappelling the route or a combination of rappelling and walking from a col. Proper preparation, including a detailed topo, a full rack (nuts, cams), and stable weather, is essential for a safe and successful ascent.
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