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Údolní stěna

Czech Republic | Český ráj | Hruboskalsko centrum | Kapelník | Podmokelská

Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay

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Overview

Grade: 5

Length: 50m

In the ledge right (1st ring) to the gully and along it to the 2nd ring. Up the wall (three rings) to the 6th ring, left behind the edge and along it (two rings) to the summit. L. Vodháňel - J. Janků (1954): From the eastern edge, ascend diagonally right along the wall to a horizontal ledge to the first ring. Continue diagonally right upwards to the corner to an inclined gully, along which we hand-traverse left into a niche where the 2nd ring is located. With a difficult move upwards in a slightly overhanging wall, we reach another ring. We then continue directly upwards along the wall with several smaller hourglasses (or pitons/anchors) to a horizontal ledge on the left edge, along which we cross left behind the edge to a large rock block (belay sling). Above us is now an overhanging corner, on its left side there is a shallow crack. Along this crack, we ascend to a sloping balcony (possibility of belay) and traverse right behind the edge, where a little higher is the 4th ring. On the edge to the left, a few meters higher, we see another ring, to which we climb directly on solid rock. From the ring, we move approximately two meters to the left and up a pushing wall with brittle holds, quite difficult, past smaller hourglasses (or pitons/anchors), we reach the 6th ring. After overcoming a slight overhang, we reach the 7th ring, from which we climb directly to the summit.

Rules

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st.Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps body PA PLA Bohemian Paradise

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA:
- use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover
- use only fixed protection and textile belay devices.
- keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds
- report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot
- do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation
- always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope
- magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors
- show your climbing license upon request
- first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation Authority of the Český Ráj Protected Landscape Area

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