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Údolní stěna, Podmokelská 5

Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise, Hruboskalsko centre, Kapelník, Podmokelská

5

Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay

Last updated 2024-05-10

Grade 5

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

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Difficulty
5
Length
50 m
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Location

50.55183, 15.17764

In the ledge right (1st ring) to the gully and along it to the 2nd ring. Up the wall (three rings) to the 6th ring, left behind the edge and along it (two rings) to the summit. L. Vodháňel - J. Janků (1954): From the eastern edge, ascend diagonally right along the wall to a horizontal ledge to the first ring. Continue diagonally right upwards to the corner to an inclined gully, along which we hand-traverse left into a niche where the 2nd ring is located. With a difficult move upwards in a slightly overhanging wall, we reach another ring. We then continue directly upwards along the wall with several smaller hourglasses (or pitons/anchors) to a horizontal ledge on the left edge, along which we cross left behind the edge to a large rock block (belay sling). Above us is now an overhanging corner, on its left side there is a shallow crack. Along this crack, we ascend to a sloping balcony (possibility of belay) and traverse right behind the edge, where a little higher is the 4th ring. On the edge to the left, a few meters higher, we see another ring, to which we climb directly on solid rock. From the ring, we move approximately two meters to the left and up a pushing wall with brittle holds, quite difficult, past smaller hourglasses (or pitons/anchors), we reach the 6th ring. After overcoming a slight overhang, we reach the 7th ring, from which we climb directly to the summit.

Discover Údolní stěna, a climbing route rated 5. The total length of this route is 50 meters. Check the latest user reviews, view the topo map below, or join the community to add your own photos for Údolní stěna.

Rules

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st.Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps body PA PLA Bohemian Paradise

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation Authority of the Český Ráj Protected Landscape Area

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

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