Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.
< Back to List

Smyslů zbaveni, Prezident 8/8+

Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones, 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 13. Metropole, Prezident

8/8+

Rock Climbing, Danger

Last updated 2024-05-11

Grade 8/8+

Climbing season

No climbing restrictions found

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
8/8+
Rock Climbing Danger
Location

50.82700, 14.23325

Parking 1.3 km

50.82022, 14.24887

Right of "Big Wall", up the center of the wall 30m below the large overhang (1st ring). Diagonally left, then right above the overhang to the crack (stance) and diagonally left up the wall to the 2nd ring. Diagonally right below the overhang to the 3rd ring. Directly over the overhang, up the wall to the right onto the edge and via that to the summit.
Rules

Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: Measure of a General Nature 2021, map 2021, authority OP Administration of NP Czech Switzerland

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Weather forecast
Loading Weather...

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Similar routes nearby (around grade 8/8+)
8/8+
Pražská stěna
To the right of the "Direct Hradčany" route up the wall via 3 rings, then a hole, a ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Severní Tyršova věž
From the 3rd K of the route "Condiciogram" directly up the wall to K, slightly left over… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Ozvěna
By a corner/small chimney (sokolík) and a dull edge (3 BH) to the ledge. Overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Pražská stěna
From the balconies to the right at the corner between Prague Wall and Tyršovy Towers, to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Pražská stěna
From the start of Smog up the wall via 5 BH to the 5th BH of the Prague Spring route.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Sluneční věž
In the valley wall, up the corner for several meters and to the right up the overhanging… Rock Climbing
Other climbing routes in Prezident
6-
Prezident
From the 2nd ring, up the wall diagonally left (hourglass/thread-through) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Prezident
From the 1st ring of "Amnesty", directly up the wall to the ledge to the 2nd ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Prezident
Start via the chimney in the S wall. Up it and traverse right to the ring. Long traverse… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Prezident
Left in the NW wall over a bolt to the 1st ring of "Amnesty". Like "Aggression" to the… Rock Climbing
6
Prezident
Right of the route "Coup", up the wall over 2 rings into the crack of the "Aggression"… Rock Climbing
6
Prezident
Through the center of the S wall via an overhanging, diagonally right-running crack to a… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Prezident
From the 1st ring of the "No Smoking" route, left into the hole directly over 4 bolts to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Prezident
Through the crack on the right in the NW wall over 3 rings and further up the wall over 3… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Prezident
Left of the route "Beer to the Castle", up the wall over 9 bolts to the summit. (Route in… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Prezident
Start completely on the right in the NW wall and over 9 rings (crossing "April Congress")… Rock Climbing Textile belay