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Hausbergkante - Rauchkofel

Austria | Tyrol | Zillertal Alps | Rauchkofel

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Overview

Grade: 6+

Total time: 7 hrs

Climbing time: 5 hrs

Approach time: 1 hour

Exit time: 2 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 380m

Rope Length: 50m

Climbing the Hausbergkante on the Rauchkofel is a classic alpine experience in the Sexten Dolomites. This route, graded at 6+ (UIAA) or around 5.10a/b (YDS), offers sustained and engaging climbing on generally solid rock. It's known for its exposed positions, stunning views, and a challenging but rewarding ascent.

The route generally follows a prominent arete (Hausbergkante translates to 'home mountain edge'), providing a logical and aesthetically pleasing line to the summit. Be prepared for varied climbing styles, including slab, cracks, and occasional overhanging sections. While bolted, the protection is not always close, requiring confident movement and the ability to place supplemental gear. A standard rack of cams and nuts is highly recommended, as well as a good understanding of alpine anchors.

**Key Considerations:**

* **Experience:** This is not a beginner route. Prior experience in alpine climbing, multi-pitch routes, and gear placement is essential.
* **Fitness:** The route is physically demanding, requiring good endurance for sustained climbing at altitude.
* **Weather:** Dolomite weather can be unpredictable. Check the forecast carefully and be prepared for sudden changes.
* **Descent:** The descent typically involves rappelling and downclimbing. Be sure to research the descent route thoroughly beforehand, as it can be complex.

Climbing the Hausbergkante is a memorable achievement, offering a blend of technical difficulty, stunning scenery, and a true alpine adventure. With careful planning, solid preparation, and confident climbing skills, you can conquer this iconic Dolomite route.

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