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Overview
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Climbing 'Prvnička' on 'Rozpůlený hřeben' in the Teplice Rocks, Czech Republic, is a quintessential experience for any sandstone climber. Graded **VI** on the UIAA scale, 'Prvnička' (meaning 'The First One') is often considered one of the classic routes up this distinctive rock formation. The ascent typically involves navigating a mix of cracks, chimneys, and exposed slab sections characteristic of the Bohemian sandstone. Protection relies heavily on the traditional Czech style, utilizing slings on fixed rings (often historical and widely spaced) and the occasional placement of your own nuts or cams. This demands a strong lead head, a good understanding of sandstone protection, and a respect for the unique nature of the rock. The climb is exposed, especially in its upper parts, offering stunning panoramic views of the surrounding rock city. It's a truly memorable climb, steeped in the rich history of Czech climbing.
Rules

Nature conservation: Climbing prohibited. Nature conservation document: Decision 2003, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy

Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area - Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves) - The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice: - Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes - Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration - Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration - Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors. OVK: first ascents are prohibited

Nature conservation: Climbing prohibited. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2003, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy

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Author

M. Palánová

P. Kamarád

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