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Schlossgespenst und Dir. Nordgrat - Schermberg Nordwand

Austria | Upper Austria | Totes Gebirge | Schermberg

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Overview

Grade: 5

Total time: 15 hrs

Climbing time: 9 hrs

Approach time: 3 hrs

Exit time: 3 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 1,400m

Rope Length: 55m

Quickdraws: 6

Climbing "Schlossgespenst und Dir. Nordgrat" on the Schermberg Nordwand is an iconic alpine rock route, highly regarded among climbers seeking a significant challenge in the Austrian Alps. Graded UIAA V (or 5), this multi-pitch ascent demands not only solid technical climbing skills but also excellent route-finding abilities and a strong head for heights due to its exposure. The route navigates the impressive North Face of Schermberg, offering diverse climbing on mostly good rock, though some sections can be variable. The "Nordgrat" (North Ridge) portion is particularly memorable for its dramatic exposure and breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Totes Gebirge mountain range. It's a full-day commitment, requiring physical endurance and mental fortitude. Successfully completing "Schlossgespenst und Dir. Nordgrat" is immensely rewarding, providing a profound sense of accomplishment and an unforgettable experience of a true alpine adventure. The descent typically involves a combination of rappels and walking, requiring careful navigation.

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