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Luftikus - Schluchtpfeiler - Maltatal

Austria | Carinthia | Ankogel group | Schluchtpfeiler

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Overview

Grade: 7-

Total time: 2 hrs

Climbing time: 2 hrs

Approach time: 15 mins

Exit time: 15 mins

Show topo Route topo

Length: 75m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 11

Climbing 'Luftikus' on the Schluchtpfeiler in Maltatal, Austria, is an iconic experience for any multi-pitch enthusiast. Graded 7- (UIAA), this route lives up to its name ('Luftikus' meaning an airy or flighty person), offering incredibly exposed and airy climbing on pristine Maltatal granite. The ascent takes you up the impressive Schluchtpfeiler, a prominent granite pillar known for its high-quality rock and spectacular setting.

The climbing itself is varied and engaging, featuring technical slab sections that demand precise footwork and good friction, interspersed with powerful crack sequences and exposed traverses that offer breathtaking views of the surrounding alpine landscape and the Maltatal valley. While generally well-equipped with bolts, the route's alpine character means that a calm head and solid multi-pitch experience are essential. Good endurance is also key, as the route is sustained and offers a rewarding physical and mental challenge. 'Luftikus' is a true classic for those seeking a memorable, aesthetic, and challenging journey up one of Austria's most beautiful granite formations. Descent is typically via abseil.
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