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Overview

Grade: 5-

Total time: 9 hrs

Climbing time: 3 hrs

Approach time: 4 hrs

Exit time: 2 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 200m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 6

The 'Siemens/Wolf' route on Schüsselkarspitze is a true classic in the Wetterstein Mountains, offering an authentic alpine climbing experience. Graded 5- (UIAA), it's a moderately challenging yet highly rewarding climb, renowned for its excellent rock quality and exposed character.

The route typically follows logical lines up the impressive limestone face, combining slab climbing, cracks, and some steeper sections. While the rock is generally solid, especially on the main pitches, climbers should expect typical alpine conditions with a mix of older fixed pitons and ample opportunities for placing natural protection (cams and nuts). A full rack is highly recommended.

Climbing the 'Siemens/Wolf' offers breathtaking views of the surrounding Wetterstein range and beyond. The exposure is significant, particularly on the upper pitches, adding to the adventurous feel. The ascent demands good route-finding skills and a steady lead.

The approach to the base of Schüsselkarspitze can be substantial, often requiring an early start. The descent typically involves multiple rappels down the south face or a similar line, requiring careful management of ropes. This route is a must-do for climbers comfortable with the grade and accustomed to alpine terrain, seeking a memorable experience on a beautiful peak.

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