Overview
Last updated 2024-05-11
Grade 6
Climbing season
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Difficulty
6
Rock Climbing
From S to a wide grassy ledge on the NE face. From its left edge to the 1st ring bolt. Right to the crack and through it to the saddle between Sphinx and Večerní V. (also "Standard route" here). Under the overhang right to the 2nd ring bolt and further right to the 3rd ring bolt at the W edge. Briefly up the crack, step right past the edge, further right into the SW face and up to the crack. Along it to the summit.
L. Vodháňel - J. Janků (1954): Ascent starts from the northeast onto a small, grassy fore-peak at the northeast face, either via the wide right crack or left via the overhanging wall to a grassy ledge. From there, ascend via the crack to the fore-peak. Further left via the corner crack under the overhang and right to the first ring bolt. From there, a little further right and along the crack to the fore-peak at Večerní Tower. Under the huge overhang, follow the ledge to the 2nd ring bolt and then via a difficult horizontal traverse on loose rock to the western corner, where the 3rd ring bolt is located. From there, ascend along the fissure upwards to its opening and with a very difficult pushing step to the right onto a sloping platform and further horizontally to the middle of the wall (sling anchors) to several smaller thread anchors. From these, continue upwards to the overhanging crack, which completes the ascent.
L. Vodháňel - J. Janků (1954): Ascent starts from the northeast onto a small, grassy fore-peak at the northeast face, either via the wide right crack or left via the overhanging wall to a grassy ledge. From there, ascend via the crack to the fore-peak. Further left via the corner crack under the overhang and right to the first ring bolt. From there, a little further right and along the crack to the fore-peak at Večerní Tower. Under the huge overhang, follow the ledge to the 2nd ring bolt and then via a difficult horizontal traverse on loose rock to the western corner, where the 3rd ring bolt is located. From there, ascend along the fissure upwards to its opening and with a very difficult pushing step to the right onto a sloping platform and further horizontally to the middle of the wall (sling anchors) to several smaller thread anchors. From these, continue upwards to the overhanging crack, which completes the ascent.
Rules
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation Authority of the Český Ráj Protected Landscape Area
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
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