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Direttissima, Sokolí stěna 5+

Czech Republic, Bohemian-Moravian Highlands, Žďár Hills, Drátník, Sokolí stěna

5+

Rock Climbing, Fixed belay

Last updated 2024-05-11

Grade 5+

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
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No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
5+
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Location

49.65470, 16.08407

The text is in Czech. Here is the translation:

Overhanging, inversely layered rib n. t., over a rounded overhang onto a sloping ledge (Lumpárna leads this way), from there slightly overhanging wall v. t. directly upwards and over overhangs onto a ramp. Then a chimney like Lumpárna.

Variant: 5+

From the ramp, using the lower holds, traverse the overhang diagonally to the left and upwards.
Rules

Nature Conservation: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2016.pdf, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy

Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area - Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves) - The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice: - Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes - Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration - Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration - Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors. OVK: first ascents are prohibited

Nature protection: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature Protection Document: Decision 2016.pdf, OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy authority

Žďár Hills PLA – some crags lie in nature reserves with restricted climbing. Check the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

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