Faszinosum Karwendulum, Sonnjoch 7-

General Information: Very beautiful, long, and alpine sport climb over very rough slabs and wall sections. The difficult sections are very well protected with bolts. In the 4th and 5th grades, you must place your own nuts, or manage without protection on the slabs. The route takes about an hour from the car, and the wall is visible from the road. While bolted, it should be considered an alpine sport climb. The approach (which is also the descent) should not be done in the rain—it involves grassy scrambling and is dangerous when wet!

Difficulty: 6+/7- (6- obligatory), often 6-/6, left variation in the 2nd pitch is 7.

First Ascent: Bernd & Uschi Prause and R. Treppte, 1990.

Wall Height / Climbing Length: 250 m wall height; 320 m climbing length across 9 pitches (4 to 5 hours).

Gear: 55 m double rope, 10 quickdraws, 2 slings, and a helmet. A set of nuts is also recommended.

Approach: Follow the path towards Bärenlahnersattel. After 5 minutes, leave the path at a stream bed and follow its left edge. The stream flows into a large gorge; look for a small gully/gorge joining from the left. The rocks to the left of this small gully mark the ascent (briefly grade 1-), reached via a "traverse ledge." Continue upwards, and at the end of the gully, head right under the main walls. Follow these past a dark, wet breakout (Route Concerto) up to a prominent light-gray slab base with a ledge above it.

Descent: Rappel down the route and return via the approach path. Caution: the descent on the approach path (briefly grade 1-) is tricky when wet!

Directions: Nearest town is Pertisau at Achensee. Take the toll road towards Gramaialm. About 1 km before the pasture, park on the right where a marked path branches off towards Bärenlahnersattel. The wall is visible from the meadow on the left.