Optionally to the fore-summit and up to the 1st ring. Traverse left (hourglass) across a narrow wall and diagonally right along the notch to the ledge (2nd ring). Right to the crack and through it to the 3rd ring. Diagonally left up the wall and through a small crack to the ledge. Right onto the balcony in the SW wall (4th ring). Left over a small overhang and right or left. (First ascent with building to the summit head from the 4th ring). L. Vodháněl - J. Janků (1954): From the upper side, we ascend about two meters up the west corner and move right to where the wall forms a corner. Along the vertical notch inside the corner, we climb onto a small fore-summit and along the left edge of the wall to the first ring. From there, we make a rather difficult traverse left past the edge and up a short wall under the overhang (passing the 2nd ring of Chlumova cesta on the left). We avoid the overhang by stepping right past the edge and, with the help of a lower hold, ascend very strenuously into a niche, in the upper part of which is the 2nd ring. With a gentle traverse, we move right to the edge, up to the notch and further along the edge to the 3rd ring. From there, we traverse horizontally on very small holds to the left to a small cavity and up to a vertical crack, through which we ascend to a ledge below the "head". Along the ledge, we carefully move right to a small cave where the 4th ring is located. We ascend to the head to the left of the ring along a diagonal notch up to the right edge and with a long, difficult step, ascend to the summit. A second option is provided by the wall of the head from the ring diagonally up left to the summit.
Rules
Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st.Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps body PA PLA Bohemian Paradise
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA:
- use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover
- use only fixed protection and textile belay devices.
- keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds
- report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot
- do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation
- always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope
- magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors
- show your climbing license upon request
- first ascent regime - see map polygons.
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation Authority of the Český Ráj Protected Landscape Area