Climbing "Franta ďábel" (Franta the Devil) at the 6+ grade on the "Třívěžatá" (Triple Tower) formation is a quintessential Central European sandstone adventure. This route embodies the spirit of climbing in areas like Bohemian Paradise or Adršpach-Teplice Rocks, where towering sandstone pinnacles demand a unique blend of technique and mental fortitude. "Franta ďábel," with its evocative name, lives up to its reputation as a challenging yet incredibly rewarding ascent. The 6+ grade on this soft rock means committing moves, often relying on delicate friction, precise foot placements in shallow pockets, or battling through off-width cracks and chimneys characteristic of the region. As you ascend Třívěžatá, you're treated to breathtaking views of the surrounding 'rock city,' a labyrinth of towers and deep gorges. The exposure on "Franta ďábel" can be significant, adding to the psychological test, but reaching the summit brings an immense sense of accomplishment, connecting you to generations of climbers who have tested themselves on these magnificent, ancient formations. It's not just a climb; it's an immersion into a unique climbing culture and a true test of a climber's all-around skill.
Rules
Nature conservation: Climbing prohibited. Nature conservation document: Decision 2003, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy
Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area
- Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves)
- The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice:
- Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes
- Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration
- Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration
- Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration
Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors.
OVK: first ascents are prohibited
Nature conservation: Climbing prohibited. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2003, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy
