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“Bloody Mary,” graded 7/7+ (UIAA), is more than just a climb; it's an experience etched into the rugged limestone of the Upper Austrian Prealps. This classic multi-pitch route is renowned for its sustained technicality and breathtaking exposure, truly living up to its name – often leaving climbers with burning forearms and a sense of having given their all.
Our day began with the crisp pre-dawn air typical of the mountains, a winding drive through picturesque valleys, and the growing anticipation as the formidable walls of the Prealps slowly revealed themselves. The base of “Bloody Mary” offers an imposing sight; a clean, steep face promising an adventure.
The initial pitches serve as a robust warm-up, leading us quickly onto razor-sharp, featured limestone. The climbing immediately demands precision and strength, with plenty of airy moves and exposed sections. As we ascended, the views opened up, revealing the patchwork of green meadows and distant peaks that characterize this stunning region. The bolting is generally good, typical of well-maintained Austrian sport climbs, offering confidence but still requiring commitment.
The real challenge, however, lies in the middle pitches, particularly the crux at 7/7+. Here, “Bloody Mary” truly bares its teeth. It's a pump-inducing ballet of delicate footwork on tiny edges, powerful pulls on small crimps, and relentless verticality. Every move is deliberate, every breath controlled. Battling the pump, pushing past the burning sensation in the forearms, and trusting the friction on the highly featured rock – these are the moments that define the route. The cheers of encouragement from my climbing partner echoed through the air, pushing me through the hardest sections.
Topping out felt like a triumph. The panoramic vistas from the anchor were simply sublime, a just reward for the physical and mental exertion. The quiet hum of the wind and the vastness of the landscape provided a moment of profound satisfaction. The descent, typically via efficient abseils, allowed us to reflect on the pitches, replaying the crux moves and the exhilarating exposure.
“Bloody Mary” is undeniably a testament to the Upper Austrian Prealps' climbing potential. It’s a route that demands respect, rewards perseverance, and leaves an indelible mark. For anyone looking for a challenging 7/7+ multi-pitch on pristine limestone with incredible scenery, this “Bloody Mary” is a must-do – just be prepared to leave a bit of yourself on the rock!
Our day began with the crisp pre-dawn air typical of the mountains, a winding drive through picturesque valleys, and the growing anticipation as the formidable walls of the Prealps slowly revealed themselves. The base of “Bloody Mary” offers an imposing sight; a clean, steep face promising an adventure.
The initial pitches serve as a robust warm-up, leading us quickly onto razor-sharp, featured limestone. The climbing immediately demands precision and strength, with plenty of airy moves and exposed sections. As we ascended, the views opened up, revealing the patchwork of green meadows and distant peaks that characterize this stunning region. The bolting is generally good, typical of well-maintained Austrian sport climbs, offering confidence but still requiring commitment.
The real challenge, however, lies in the middle pitches, particularly the crux at 7/7+. Here, “Bloody Mary” truly bares its teeth. It's a pump-inducing ballet of delicate footwork on tiny edges, powerful pulls on small crimps, and relentless verticality. Every move is deliberate, every breath controlled. Battling the pump, pushing past the burning sensation in the forearms, and trusting the friction on the highly featured rock – these are the moments that define the route. The cheers of encouragement from my climbing partner echoed through the air, pushing me through the hardest sections.
Topping out felt like a triumph. The panoramic vistas from the anchor were simply sublime, a just reward for the physical and mental exertion. The quiet hum of the wind and the vastness of the landscape provided a moment of profound satisfaction. The descent, typically via efficient abseils, allowed us to reflect on the pitches, replaying the crux moves and the exhilarating exposure.
“Bloody Mary” is undeniably a testament to the Upper Austrian Prealps' climbing potential. It’s a route that demands respect, rewards perseverance, and leaves an indelible mark. For anyone looking for a challenging 7/7+ multi-pitch on pristine limestone with incredible scenery, this “Bloody Mary” is a must-do – just be prepared to leave a bit of yourself on the rock!
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