Skip to content
You are offline — showing a saved version of this page.
A new version is available.

Last updated 2024-05-11

Grade 5

Climbing season

Restrictions in 5 month(s)

  • Open
  • Restricted
  • Unknown
Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec
Community

Help improve this page

No logs or topo yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Difficulty
5
Location

50.46714, 15.29047

From the platform through the chimney to the balcony on the NE edge and up the east face to the summit.

Discover 1.Varianta, a climbing route rated 5. Check the latest user reviews, view the topo map below, or join the community to add your own photos for 1.Varianta.

Rules

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise

The site operator sets the conditions for climbers (entry, permits) – check them before you go.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Weather forecast
Loading Weather...

Current conditions

No condition reports in the last 30 days.

No logs yet — add what you know so the next climber has an easier start.

Reviews 0
Have you climbed here?
0 people bookmarked this place
Share this route

Send it to the person you want to climb it with.

WhatsApp Facebook

Nobody to climb with?

Similar routes nearby (around grade 5)
5
Rozmanitá věž východní
5
Plochá věž
Up the wall to the summit
5
Velká ztracená věž
E crack to the balcony, along two cracks and through a chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Rozmanitá věž západní
Through the crack at the southeast edge with an overhang, higher up by a sloping ledge… Rock Climbing
5
Čajový pavilon
In the wall along the edge to the ring and along the edge to the summit
5
Schovanka
Along the right part of the wall to the summit
Other climbing routes in Velký kapucín
2
Velký kapucín
Through the chimney between the Great Capuchin and the Turtle to the platform left behind… Rock Climbing
6-
Velký kapucín
From the balcony in the north face left of the Old Route
6
Velký kapucín
Through the chimney to the balcony. Left along the wall to the ring and along the fragile…
6
Velký kapucín
Along the west edge to the summit.
6
Velký kapucín
Through the crack in the right part of the north face to the platform and along the west… Rock Climbing
6
Velký kapucín
Left of the southeast edge directly through the crack and up the wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Velký kapucín
In the right part of the south face via small pillars diagonally left and up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Velký kapucín
From the ring directly via the small pillar and up the wall (ring) to the summit.
8
Velký kapucín
Via the left small pillar in the right part of the S face to the balcony, right and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Velký kapucín
Through the left part of the south face under the crack, up it over the ring. Rock Climbing