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Alte Ostwand (Göttner) - Vordere Karlspitze

Austria | Tyrol | Kaiser Mountains | Vordere Karlspitze

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Overview

Grade: 6+

Total time: 7 hrs

Climbing time: 4 hrs

Approach time: 2 hrs

Exit time: 2 hrs

Show topo Route topo

Length: 275m

Rope Length: 50m

Quickdraws: 9

Climbing the "Alte Ostwand (Göttner)" on the Vordere Karlspitze is a demanding and rewarding alpine experience. This classic route, graded 6+ (UIAA), offers sustained and exposed climbing on excellent rock. Expect steep walls, delicate traverses, and thought-provoking sequences that require solid technique and mental fortitude. The route generally follows a logical line up the east face, with well-placed bolts for protection, but some sections still demand confident trad climbing skills for gear placement. The exposure is significant throughout, providing breathtaking views of the surrounding Kaisergebirge. Proper planning, including a thorough understanding of the route description, weather forecast, and self-rescue skills, is essential for a safe and successful ascent. The feeling of topping out on the Vordere Karlspitze after conquering the Alte Ostwand is truly unforgettable.

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