Castorverschneidung (Keile!)

The 'Castorverschneidung (Keile!)' is a true test piece and a legendary route in the Wachau / Waldviertel climbing area of Lower Austria. Graded 6 (UIAA), this climb through a prominent dihedral (Verschneidung) is anything but trivial. The 'Keile!' (Wedges!) in its name is a historical nod, indicating its original establishment in an era where pitons and later passive wedges were crucial for protection, often in sparsely bolted or natural gear-only sections. This translates to a demanding, technical, and often sustained climb that requires a solid grasp of traditional climbing techniques, a good head for run-outs, and excellent crack/corner climbing skills. The rock, typical for the region, is granite or gneiss, offering excellent friction but also challenging features. It's a classic for experienced climbers seeking a serious and committing ascent in a less crowded, but equally beautiful, setting.

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