Overview
Last updated 2024-05-10
Grade 7
Climbing season
Restrictions in 5 month(s)
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Difficulty
7
Rock Climbing Fixed belay
From the base of the tower upwards under a prominent overhang and left to the ring. Left, over the overhang and via the crumbling wall to the 2nd ring. Right and along the edge (3rd ring) to the North fore-summit. L. Vodháněl - J. Janků (1954): The ascent starts in the right part of the northern edge of the separate pillar extending furthest north. Here, we ascend about 5 m upwards to just below the prominent overhang on the edge. Below it, we traverse horizontally left into a short crack parallel to the edge. Now directly along the edge bordering the valley wall to the large hourglasses (holds). From there, diagonally upwards to the left into the valley wall to the ring. From the ring, about 2 m left to the large hourglasses and up to a small horizontal ledge. Along it to the left into the corner. Up the corner about 4 m and diagonally right over very crumbling steps and over the overhang to the spot directly below the large hourglasses. Now vertically up to the 2nd ring. From there, right onto the edge and along it up to a very steep pre-summit plateau, above which the 3rd ring is located. From the ring, left and then over a receding small wall to the top of the pillar.
Rules
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature conservation documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Administration Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation Authority of the Český Ráj Protected Landscape Area
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
- Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
- Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
- Abseil only from fixed anchors.
- Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
- Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
- First ascents usually need prior approval.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
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