Overview
Last updated 2024-03-26
Grade 7/7+
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Difficulty
7/7+
Climbing 'Oteklé dásně' (Swollen Gums), a formidable route graded 7/7+ in the unique 'Zoubky' sector, is a true test of technical skill and endurance. The name itself hints at the sustained, sometimes gruelling, nature of the ascent. 'Zoubky,' literally 'Little Teeth,' perfectly describes the rock formation: sharp, intricate features demanding precise footwork and strong, delicate fingerwork on small crimps and pockets. The route often starts with a series of tricky moves leading into its main challenge. The crux, typically mid-route, requires not just power but intricate body positioning and a keen eye for subtle holds. It's a classic example of Czech sandstone climbing, where friction and specific beta are paramount. Maintaining focus through the pumpy sections, especially towards the anchors, is key to success. Reaching the top of 'Oteklé dásně' provides a deep sense of satisfaction, having conquered a route that lives up to its challenging name and grade.
Rules
The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.
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