Overview
Grade: 5
P.S. The ring could not have been placed additionally, as was mistakenly written, because the construction would not have been possible. The first clean ascent VI, about a year later by Pavel Rosman, but again: without securing with that ring, it would have been quite a suicidal attempt (for that time).
The first ascent proceeded as follows: I climbed to the ledge and placed the ring. Then I stood up for Šplíchal, because he was 1/2 m taller and there was hope that he would reach something. We took Pavlová with us so she would be happy, because Jirka was dating her.
We rated it as V. Firstly, because it's not very long, and also because it was fashionable to underestimate. Currently, the prevailing opinion is that it is VII, but I don't know. Someone would have to assess it. Sochor rated his 'Neklidné stáří' (Restless Old Age) as IV ;). H. Obročník's current opinion is VIIb, others rather VIIc. My opinion is that it is difficult even if short, unsecured and dangerous (a spine-breaking rock at the start) VIIc.
I submit this report and remain with greetings.
Cheers to Construction and Peace to the World.
Wind 2x folded over
Rules
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA:
- use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover
- use only fixed protection and textile belay devices.
- keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds
- report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot
- do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation
- always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope
- magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors
- show your climbing license upon request
- first ascent regime - see map polygons.
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise
Location
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