Quatschkopp - Martinswand

The "Quatschkopp" is a recently established multi-pitch climbing route on the Martinswand in the Karwendel mountain range near Innsbruck, Austria. First ascended in May 2023 by Kilian Lommer and Jakob Scheler, this route offers climbers a blend of technical challenges and scenic beauty.

Route Overview:

• Difficulty: The route is rated 6 (UIAA), with an obligatory 5+ (UIAA) difficulty, indicating a moderate level of challenge suitable for climbers with intermediate experience.

• Length: Approximately 160 meters of climbing, divided into five pitches.

• Climbing Duration: Typically completed in around 1.5 hours, depending on the climber's experience and conditions.

• Approach: The approach involves a 15-minute hike from the parking area to the base of the route.

  Route Characteristics:

"Quatschkopp" features well-protected climbing with bolts, offering a mix of technical sections and enjoyable passages. The route is characterized by a large "rain gutter" feature and ends just before an overhanging section.

Equipment and Safety:

Climbers should be equipped with standard multi-pitch climbing gear, including:

• Helmet and Harness: Essential for safety.

• 70-meter Single Rope: Suitable for the route's length.

• 14 Quickdraws: For the bolted sections.

• Personal Protective Equipment: Such as gloves and appropriate footwear.

The route is well-protected with bolts, but climbers should have prior experience with multi-pitch climbing and be prepared for variable weather conditions.

Descent:

After completing the climb, descend via abseiling over the route using a 70-meter single rope or double ropes. Be cautious of potential rockfall, especially in the second pitch area where the route crosses a scree-filled gully.

Additional Information:

The Martinswand area offers several climbing routes suitable for various skill levels. For those interested in exploring more, the "Botanik Grand Prix" is another popular climb in the area.

Lezení "Quatschkopp" (6) na Martinswand je klasický zážitek. Tato cesta, obtížnosti 6 (podle UIAA stupnice), nabízí příjemné lezení na pevném vápenci. Chyty jsou obecně dobré a cesta sleduje logickou linii nahoru po stěně. Očekávejte kombinaci lezení po stěně a některých strmějších úseků, které vyžadují pečlivou práci nohou. I když není příliš namáhavá, je zapotřebí vytrvalé úsilí a dobrá technika je klíčem k úspěchu. Samotná Martinswand poskytuje dramatické pozadí a výhledy z cesty jsou odměňující. Před výstupem si nezapomeňte ověřit aktuální podmínky a případná varování. "Quatschkopp" je oblíbená cesta, takže je často nejlepší ji lézt brzy ráno nebo během týdne, abyste se vyhnuli davům. Celkově je to skvělý úvod do vícedélkového lezení na Martinswand a uspokojivý úspěch pro lezce v 6. stupni obtížnosti.

Location