CAI Portogruaro, Carnic Alps D

A ferrata with a strong historical feel, running among First World War remains on Monte Chiadenis (2,459 m). The peak sits on the Italian–Austrian border in the western Carnic Alps, and the route is maintained by CAI Sappada (path 132cF). From Italy, a marked path leads to the start from Rifugio Pier Fortunato Calvi (2,164 m). From Austria, drive up the Frohntal from St. Lorenzen im Lesachtal to the car park beyond the Zollhütte. Walk via the Hochweißsteinhaus to the Bladner Joch (2,134 m) and on to the Passo di Sesis (2,312 m). Continue under the north walls of Chiadenis and turn right onto a faint wartime path to the foot of the peak. That's about 3 hours.

From the Forcella dei Fortini, an athletic vertical start leads onto slabs, ledges and rock steps that take you to the summit. Depending on the source, the height gain is 200–350 m. There are several short vertical sections that are technically demanding but don't last long. Between the cables you'll find a few short, easy moves with no protection (I), and the sloping ledge just below the summit is unprotected too. Alpenverein Spittal grades it C and CAI FVG grades it D. There are no escape routes, and rockfall from parties above is a real risk, so put your kit on well before the start.

The usual way down is the easier old cabled path on the south side (B at most, slippery in places) to Rifugio Calvi. If you came from Austria, return from there over the Passo di Sesis. The full loop takes about 8.5 hours with 1,350 m of ascent. Bring a full via ferrata kit, a helmet and sturdy shoes. A short rope is worth carrying.