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Dernière mise à jour 2024-03-26

Grade 7+

Saison d'escalade

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  • Ouvert
  • Limité
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Difficulté
7+
Rock Climbing
Emplacement

49.94472, 14.13038

Parking 935 m

49.93659, 14.13369

Climbing 'Reschova varianta' (7+) in 'Blážina stěna - levá část' is a true test piece for any experienced climber. Located in the heart of the Czech sandstone climbing areas, this route embodies the unique style and challenges inherent to the region. With a formidable grade of 7+ (UIAA scale), it demands not only exceptional physical strength but also precise technique, mental fortitude, and a deep understanding of traditional protection.

The 'Blážina stěna - levá část' provides a stunning, yet unforgiving, backdrop for this ascent. The rock is typical sandstone, characterized by friction-dependent moves, delicate balance, and often run-out sections where protection might be sparse or rely on natural features like hourglasses (pískovcové hodiny) or knotted slings. 'Reschova varianta' is known for its sustained difficulty, with challenging sequences extending through multiple pitches. The crux sections often involve intricate footwork on tiny edges or smears, combined with demanding finger strength on small crimps or slopers.

Undertaking 'Reschova varianta' is a profound experience. The exposure is significant, offering breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape, but also amplifying the mental game. Every move feels earned, every piece of protection carefully considered. It's a dance with the rock, where trust in friction and a calm mind are paramount. Successfully topping out on this route leaves a deep sense of accomplishment, a testament to pushing personal limits in one of the Czech Republic's most iconic climbing locales. It's a climb that solidifies one's mastery of the specific, often bold, art of sandstone climbing.
Règles

Nature protection: climbing allowed all year round. Nature protection documents: Decision 2019-2029, drawing, authority OP PLA Bohemian Karst

The access road along the Berounka River is closed due to the risk of falling rocks from the playground in Srbsko to Kačák.

Nature protection: Climbing allowed all year round. Nature protection documents: Decision 2019-2029, appendices, authority OP PLA Bohemian Karst

  • Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques s'appliquent.
  • Ne pas créer ni tailler de prises, ne pas abîmer le rocher.
  • Magnésie interdite ou tolérée selon les règles locales.
  • Pas d'escalade sur rocher mouillé.

The area lies in the Bohemian Karst PLA – climb only where it is permitted. At Srbsko, Šanův kout, Andělská stěna and Zrcadlo, among others, are closed. Current status in the ČHS crag database.

Prévisions météorologiques

Prévisions météo sur 3 jours pour ce lieu et estimation de la sécheresse du rocher pour grimper aujourd’hui, mises à jour toutes les heures.

Conditions actuelles

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