Rudá hrana, Dračí věž 7

Tchéquie, Paradis de Bohême, Hruboskalsko centrum, Dračí skály, Dračí věž

Rock Climbing, Textile belay

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Dernière mise à jour 2024-05-11

Grade 7

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Rock Climbing Textile belay

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50.54757, 15.19470

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Through the chimney to the fore-summit below the SW wall. Along the sloping ledge into the corner, in the notch traverse right behind the edge under the overhang (1st ring). Over the overhang left to the edge and along it to the 2nd ring. To the right of it, a short gully into a hole (hourglass) and hand-traversing in the notch to the edge (3rd ring). Left to the 4th ring, crack to the balcony (bolt, hourglass) and then to the summit. L. Vodhábel - J. Janků (1954): From the southern fore-summit, slightly diagonally up left to a narrow ledge (sling) below the Dragon Wall. Along the ledge, traverse horizontally right behind the edge of the rock to the first ring. Continue up over the overhang to the second ring. From there, on small but solid holds, left to the edge and along it to the 3rd ring. From there, continue diagonally right into a cavity and then up to a horizontal ledge, along which we traverse to the eastern edge to the 4th ring. Now we climb the broken wall up and higher, somewhat to the left, where the 5th ring is. Along the vertical notch, the "sokolík" (small groove), we reach the balcony (sling). With a difficult step in the northwest smooth wall to the summit.

Règles

Nature Conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to June 30th. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority of Nature Conservation Protected Landscape Area Bohemian Paradise

Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.

Nature protection: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st, exceptions apply to specific rocks. Nature Protection Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps OP authority CHKO Český Ráj

La magnésie est interdite.
Pas de protections métalliques – uniquement l'équipement fixe et les protections textiles (sangles, nœuds).
On grimpe uniquement du bas et sur rocher sec.
Cordées de 5 grimpeurs au maximum.
Rappel uniquement sur ancrages fixes.
Accès aux rochers uniquement par les chemins publics et balisés.
Ne pas abîmer le rocher ni la végétation, ne pas déranger les oiseaux nicheurs, limiter le bruit.
Les premières ascensions nécessitent en général une autorisation préalable.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.