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UFO — 5-, Levá stěna nebes 5-

Czech Republic, Severozápadní Čechy, Bořeň, Západní prostor, Levá stěna nebes

5-

Rock Climbing, Friends, Fixed belay, Route on sun, Textile belay, Laid wall

Aperçu

Dernière mise à jour 2024-05-12

Grade 5-
Durée totale
Aucune donnée de durée disponible

Saison d'escalade

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Communauté

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Difficulté
5-
Longueur
80 m
Rock Climbing Friends Fixed belay Route on sun Textile belay Laid wall
Emplacement

50.52861, 13.76004

The ascent leads roughly through the middle of the wall over the "cross" (a horizontal edge of overhangs and a vertical line of indentations and a corner form a cross-like feature), which is located about 2/3 up the wall. A landmark for approaching the base of the Wall of Heavens is the Training Wall, located in the (W) area above the hut, about 20m from the tourist path, approximately 15m high, with a metal structure at its top for practicing falls. We reach the top of this wall by traversing left or right. From there, we go about 20m left up to a grassy terrace with trees. This is the start of the UFO route. From the center of the terrace, go straight up a grassy wall for about 9m to the 1st piton (1st belay station). (It is also possible to reach here from the left edge of the terrace, 4m up a corner and 6m traversing along a grassy ledge to the piton). Continue up a slabby wall by friction diagonally upwards for about 8m to a prominent boulder (protection) below a band of overhangs, and from there 2m traverse back to the right into a notch below a small overhang (piton). Go straight 5m over it to the 2nd piton (2nd belay station). From there, along a crack slightly right for about 4m to the 3rd piton. From there, left along a crack about 5m up (piton) and traverse 2m diagonally right into the cross (cross = indentation with a ledge) to the 4th piton (3rd belay station). Up through the indentation for about 2m (piton) and down a sloping ramp around the 5th piton along the wall, slightly left for about 8m to a slabby wall. Here, turn back diagonally right, 15m up into a prominent grassy corner. Follow it for 5m to its end and then slightly right for 8m to prominent rock blocks to the 6th piton (4th belay station = rappel point).

Découvrez UFO, une voie d'escalade classée 5- UIAA. La longueur totale de cet itinéraire est de 80 mètres. Consultez les derniers avis des utilisateurs, consultez la carte topographique ci-dessous ou rejoignez la communauté pour ajouter vos propres photos pour UFO.

Règles

Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round. NPR Bořeň - OOP 2021-2030, OP CHKO České středohoří authority.

The permit applies to sport climbing. It does not apply to bouldering, drytooling, slackline and highline. - access only via hiking trails or marked access paths - a detailed description of the paths is in a measure of general nature - report bird nesting to the rock manager - climbing only in daylight - prohibition of damaging and changing the surface of rocks - prohibition of using protection that damages the rock - prohibition of using winter climbing equipment - prohibition of rappelling using trees and bushes, prohibition of interfering with vegetation and loosening stones - prohibition of first ascents without the consent of the rock manager, who will negotiate consent with the nature protection body OVK: - prohibition of creating routes from above without prior OVK consent - prohibition of using rocks and summit books for commercial purposes; any intention must be consulted with the manager and OVK

Nature protection: climbing allowed year-round. Decision 2015, OP CHKO České středohoří authority.

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