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Dernière mise à jour 2024-05-11
Grade 7
Saison d'escalade
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Difficulté
7
Rock Climbing
From the East, traverse across the NE face to the large 'clock' on the N edge. Then right into the valley wall to a small cave (also directly here via the right crack in the valley wall). Up the overhanging crack over an embedded block ('egg') into a narrow chimney and by that to the summit.
L. Vodháňel - J. Janků (1954): From the northwest base of the tower, ascend the right indistinct crack to a step. With a high step in the right wall, reach a receding easier wall and higher into a small cave where belaying is possible. From there, quite easily traverse horizontally left to another cave. This cave can also be reached from the east corner of the tower by climbing diagonally right along notches, then along a grassy ledge and by squeezing through a rock window. From the cave, continue up the overhanging, right-sloping, pushing crack into a bell-shaped recess at the start of the summit crack (the most difficult point of the ascent). The summit is reached by continuing up the narrow chimney.
L. Vodháňel - J. Janků (1954): From the northwest base of the tower, ascend the right indistinct crack to a step. With a high step in the right wall, reach a receding easier wall and higher into a small cave where belaying is possible. From there, quite easily traverse horizontally left to another cave. This cave can also be reached from the east corner of the tower by climbing diagonally right along notches, then along a grassy ledge and by squeezing through a rock window. From the cave, continue up the overhanging, right-sloping, pushing crack into a bell-shaped recess at the start of the summit crack (the most difficult point of the ascent). The summit is reached by continuing up the narrow chimney.
Règles
Nature conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from November 1st to March 31st. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps authority Nature Conservation Agency Bohemian Paradise
Climbing conditions in the Český Ráj PLA: - use public or marked paths to access the rocks and do not damage the vegetation cover - use only fixed protection and textile belay devices. - keep quiet, do not climb on wet or damp sandstone, do not disturb nesting birds - report bird nesting, wear shoes with smooth soles, or climb barefoot - do not damage or change the surface of the rocks (rope abrasion, chopping), do not remove plants and vegetation - always climb routes from below, the number of climbers in the team max. 5, do not use Top Rope - magnesium and other chemical agents are prohibited, rappel only on permanent rappel anchors - show your climbing license upon request - first ascent regime - see map polygons.Nature Conservation: Climbing seasonally prohibited from 11/1 to 3/31, exceptions exist for specific rocks. Nature Conservation Documents: Decision 2022-2026, Decision 2022-2026_Maps of the Nature Conservation authority of CHKO Český Ráj
- La magnésie est interdite.
- Pas de protections métalliques – uniquement l'équipement fixe et les protections textiles (sangles, nœuds).
- On grimpe uniquement du bas et sur rocher sec.
- Cordées de 5 grimpeurs au maximum.
- Rappel uniquement sur ancrages fixes.
- Accès aux rochers uniquement par les chemins publics et balisés.
- Ne pas abîmer le rocher ni la végétation, ne pas déranger les oiseaux nicheurs, limiter le bruit.
- Les premières ascensions nécessitent en général une autorisation préalable.
On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.
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