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Dernière mise à jour 2024-03-26

Grade 6

Saison d'escalade

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Difficulté
6
Rock Climbing
Emplacement

49.59316, 16.11985

Climbing 'Cez frňáci' (grade 6 UIAA) on 'Rozpůlený hřeben' is a quintessential Czech climbing experience, a route that combines challenge, exposure, and breathtaking views. Located within dramatic sandstone formations, the approach itself is a journey through enchanting forests, leading to the striking silhouette of the 'Split Ridge'.

'Cez frňáci' typically begins with a straightforward but sustained pitch, setting the tone for the climb. As you ascend, the character of the route truly reveals itself. The name, meaning 'Through the Noses,' perfectly encapsulates the unique features of the sandstone – bulbous formations, intriguing pockets, and often tricky, friction-dependent moves. Grade 6 demands solid technique, precise footwork, and a cool head, especially on the more exposed sections.

The crux often involves navigating an airy traverse or a committing sequence up a narrow crack, where traditional Czech protection – often just knotted slings or specialized cams – requires confidence and experience. The rock quality is generally excellent, but the sandstone demands a respectful, gentle touch, eschewing chalk and relying on natural friction and body tension.

Reaching the summit of 'Rozpůlený hřeben' after tackling 'Cez frňáci' is incredibly rewarding. The panoramic vistas across the surrounding landscape are spectacular, offering a sense of accomplishment and connection to the wild beauty of the area. The descent is typically via a rappel from fixed anchors, a final exciting flourish to a memorable day. 'Cez frňáci' isn't just a climb; it's an immersion into the rich history and unique style of Czech rock climbing.
Règles

Nature conservation: Climbing prohibited. Nature conservation document: Decision 2003, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy

Žďárské vrchy Protected Landscape Area - Rock sectors of the Žďárské vrchy have the status of specially protected areas (natural monuments or reserves) - The following applies to all sectors except Čtyři palice: - Access to the rocks by the shortest routes from marked tourist routes - Climbing on objects other than marked ones and outside the permitted period only with a written permit from the PLA administration - Use magnesium only with written permission from the PLA administration - replacement and installation of belays and marking of rocks and routes only with written consent from the PLA administration - Organizing sports, tourist and other events only with the written consent of the PLA administration Time and other restrictions are listed for individual sectors. OVK: first ascents are prohibited

Nature conservation: Climbing prohibited. Nature Conservation Document: Decision 2003, authority OP CHKO Žďárské vrchy

Žďár Hills PLA – some crags lie in nature reserves with restricted climbing. Check the ČHS crag database.

Les règles de la ČHS pour les sites rocheux tchèques et celles de la commission locale s'appliquent : ne pas modifier le rocher ni les prises, ne pas grimper sur rocher mouillé, premières ascensions selon les principes de la ČHS.

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