❄️ First Winter Ascent of Fitz Roy’s Casarotto Route
On September 7, 2025, Italian climbers Matteo Della Bordella and Marco Majori etched their names into Patagonian climbing history by completing the first-ever winter ascent of the legendary Casarotto route on Fitz Roy’s Goretta Pillar.
🧗♂️ The Route: A Tribute to Boldness
Originally soloed in 1979 by Italian alpinist Renato Casarotto, the route spans 1,300 meters over 35 pitches, with difficulties up to grade VII and aid sections rated A1–A2.
Casarotto named the line “Pilar Goretta” in honor of his wife, Goretta Traverso, who supported him via radio from base camp during his historic solo climb.
🌨️ The Challenge of Winter
Della Bordella and Majori faced brutal conditions: nighttime temperatures plunged to –20°C, and even midday highs barely reached 5°C.
Short winter days halved their climbing time compared to summer, and the cold made rope handling nearly impossible during their first attempt with teammate Tommaso Lamantia, who later returned to Italy
🏔️ The Final Push
After weeks of waiting for a weather window, the duo seized a brief forecast break.
They launched their summit bid on a Friday, bivouacked on the wall, and reached the top on Sunday afternoon—three days of relentless climbing on razor-sharp granite
