James Pearson’s ascent of What We Do in the Shadows (E10 7a) is a standout moment in modern trad climbing. Here's the full story behind this bold Scottish line:

🧗‍♂️ The Route: What We Do in the Shadows (E10 7a)

  • Location: Loch Duntelchaig, Scotland

  • First Ascent: Robbie Phillips in October 2021, belayed by Dave MacLeod—who made the second ascent the same day

  • Style: Steep, powerful trad climbing with minimal protection and high physical difficulty

  • Grade: E10 7a, one of the UK’s hardest trad grades

Robbie described it as the hardest rock climb he’d ever done, comparing it to solid 8c sport routes in terms of difficulty. The route begins on Nosferatu (E8 6c) and then takes a direct line up the crag, diverging from Nosferatu’s rightward trend.

🇬🇧 James Pearson’s Ascent

  • Date: August 2025

  • Style: Ground-up ascent—not pre-practiced or top-roped

  • Approach: Attempted a flash-go, got close, then sent it ground-up on a later attempt

Pearson is known for pushing the boundaries of flash and ground-up ascents on hard trad routes. He’s previously attempted routes like Muy Caliente and Lexicon in similar style.

🧠 His Reflections

James shared deep insights into the mental and logistical challenges of hard trad:

  • Protection is often complex and fiddly, especially mid-crux

  • Balancing speed vs. security is critical—move too slow and you pump out; too fast and you miss key gear

  • He emphasized how rare it is to find physically hard, well-protected trad routes that are suitable for flash attempts

🔥 Why It Matters

  • Pearson’s ascent adds to the legacy of this route, confirming its status as a modern trad testpiece

  • It highlights the evolving ethics and ambitions in trad climbing—where ground-up and flash ascents are becoming the gold standard for elite climbers