🧗♂️ Breaking New Ground on Merriam Peak: The First Free Ascent of “Dr. Bear Love”
In a bold alpine achievement, climbers Japhy Dhungana and Zach Lovell completed the first free ascent of the 400-meter granite route “Dr. Bear Love” on Merriam Peak (3,993 m) in California’s Sierra Nevada this July.
🪨 The Route and the Climb
Originally established in 2012 with aid by Luke Stefurak and Casey Zak, “Dr. Bear Love” had never been climbed entirely free until now.
Dhungana and Lovell spent time cleaning the route, refining the granite cracks, and working through the two stout crux pitches, estimated at 5.13a (7c+) and 5.12c (7b+).
After a rest day, they sent the route ground-up, swinging leads and placing all gear themselves—no bolts were added.
🏔️ Style and Significance
The ascent was done in pure alpine style, with the climbers emphasizing the importance of gear-only protection and minimal impact.
Lovell described the climb as “a very palatable entry to alpine 13,” noting the quality of stone and the solitude of the peak.
This marks the first harder free route on Merriam Peak, which already hosts classics like the Direct North Buttress (5.10) and Gargoyle (5.11b).
🐟 Bonus First Ascent: Fish Tale Spire
During the same trip, the duo also made the first ascent of Fish Tale Spire (3,850 m), establishing “Fish You Were Here”, a 200-meter 5.12 route, again using only gear.
This ascent not only pushes the technical boundaries of alpine climbing in the Sierra, but also showcases the spirit of exploration and respect for the mountains. Dhungana and Lovell’s achievement is sure to inspire climbers seeking remote, challenging, and beautiful lines.
