The Virgin River Gorge (VRG) is notorious for two things: the deafening roar of semi-trucks on Interstate 15 right next to the belay stances, and holding some of the most historical, technical sport climbing test pieces in North America.
Recently, the Ukrainian powerhouse Jenya Kazbekova battled both the noise and the microscopic crimps to claim an impressive ascent of the crag’s crown jewel: Necessary Evil (5.14c/8c+).
A Historical Benchmark
To understand the significance of Jenya’s send, you have to understand the route. Established by a 15-year-old Chris Sharma in 1997, Necessary Evil was, at the time, the hardest sport route in North America. It set the benchmark for the 5.14c grade.
Route Profile: Necessary Evil
- Location: Blasphemy Wall, Virgin River Gorge, AZ
- Grade: 5.14c (8c+)
- Style: Thin, technical, unforgiving crimping on slick limestone.
- Reputation: A notoriously conditions-dependent route that has shut down many of the world's best climbers for decades.
The route is essentially two stacks of 5.14a climbing separated by a mediocre rest. It demands extreme finger strength, precision footwork, and the mental fortitude to execute low-percentage moves while highway traffic screams past you just yards away.
Joining an Exclusive Club
While Jenya Kazbekova is widely known for her prowess on the World Cup competition circuit, her transition to cutting-edge outdoor ascents has been seamless. By clipping the chains on Necessary Evil, she has cemented her place in American climbing history.
This ascent is particularly notable because the list of women who have conquered the Blasphemy Wall's test piece is incredibly short. Jenya joins an elite tier of female crushers, following in the footsteps of Michaela Kiersch and Paige Claassen, who famously made back-to-back female ascents of the route in 2018.
For over 25 years, Necessary Evil has remained a relevant and difficult challenge. Jenya’s ascent proves that despite its age, the route remains a true measure of world-class technical climbing ability.
Massive congratulations to Jenya on taking down one of the most iconic lines in the States!