The wait is over for the climbing world. On February 2, 2026, the IOC Executive Board officially approved the qualification pathway for Sport Climbing at the Los Angeles 2028 Games. This is the document every federation, coach, and athlete has been waiting for, confirming the sport's massive evolution from Paris 2024.

Here is the definitive guide to how climbers will reach LA28.

3 Separate Disciplines
6 Gold Medals
76 Total Athletes

1. The "Holy Grail" Achieved: 3 Separate Disciplines

For the first time in Olympic history, Sport Climbing will feature three standalone medal events per gender. The "Combined" format (Boulder & Lead) used in Paris is gone. In Los Angeles, specialists will finally shine in their own rights:

  • Boulder (Men & Women)
  • Lead (Men & Women)
  • Speed (Men & Women)

2. The Quota Breakdown

The total athlete quota has increased to 76 climbers (38 men, 38 women). However, the distribution is strict due to the separation of events.

🏃 Speed Quotas

Speed climbing is now completely distinct from the other disciplines.

  • Total Spots: 28 (14 Men / 14 Women)
  • Max per Country: 2 per gender.

🧗 Boulder & Lead Quotas (The "Shared Pool")

This is where the system gets technical. While Boulder and Lead have separate medals, they share a quota pool of 48 athletes (24 Men / 24 Women). The system allows for "Cross-Qualification":

If an elite climber (e.g., a Toby Roberts or Janja Garnbret type) qualifies for both Boulder and Lead, they will compete in both events but only consume one athlete quota spot. This efficient use of spots allows the field size to effectively expand beyond the minimum of 12 athletes per final event.

3. The Road to LA: Qualification Timeline

The qualification period officially kicks off in mid-2027. Here are the three major gateways to the Games:

📍 Step 1: Continental Games (2027)

The "Golden Ticket" Events. The winners of the 5 major continental games will punch the first direct tickets to LA28. This includes the European Games and the Pan American Games.

🌍 Step 2: World Championships (August 2027)

Location: Brno, Czechia.
The climbing world will descend on Brno for the most critical event of the cycle. The top finishers here (likely podium spots) will secure direct qualification. This will be the first time athletes can qualify specifically for just "Lead" or just "Boulder."

🔥 Step 3: Olympic Qualifier Series (OQS) 2028

The Last Chance Saloon. Following the success of the OQS for Paris, this series returns in the spring of 2028 (locations TBD). It will allocate the bulk of the remaining quota spots based on a points system across 3 events.

4. Key Rules to Watch

  • Host Country Spots: The USA is guaranteed 1 spot per gender per discipline. If American climbers qualify outright (which is highly likely given their current depth), these host spots are reallocated to the next eligible athletes in the World Ranking.
  • Universality Places: To ensure global representation, 1 spot per gender is reserved for under-represented nations, provided they meet a minimum performance standard.
  • Age Limit: Athletes must be born on or before December 31, 2012 (turning 16 in the Olympic year).