The 21-year-old Austrian has ticked Cédric Lachat's Swiss classic above Voralpsee. It went on the first go of her sixth session, on a route full of small crimps and technical moves that she calls definitely her style.

Speed Intégrale climbs about 40 metres of limestone at Voralpsee near Grabs, in the canton of St. Gallen in eastern Switzerland. It started as Beat Kammerlander's Speed (8c+) from 1995. Cédric Lachat extended it and made the first ascent of the full line in 2010. The route is known for small crimps, technical climbing and long runouts. Barbara Zangerl made the first female ascent in May 2018, and it was her first 9a as well. Climbing History also lists repeats by Sébastien Berthe, Mel Janse van Rensburg and Luisa Deubzer, among others.

Kompein had tried the route briefly last year. This time it went fast. She sent it this autumn on the first go of her sixth session. She told 8a.nu the hardest part for her came between the fifth and sixth bolts, and that the whole thing was about managing the pump. On Instagram she wrote that she had dreamed of the route for so long and thought it was out of reach.

She arrived in good form. In September she repeated Der Schwarze Schwan and In Memo Reini, both 8c in the Ötztal, each in a single day. Kompein, who climbs for the Austrian national team, also took bronze in lead in the U20 category at the 2024 Youth World Championships in Guiyang.

Speed Intégrale is a first 9a she shares with Zangerl. For Jessica Pilz it was Hades at the Götterwandl, and for Camilla Moroni Dreamcatcher. Zangerl, the first woman up Speed Intégrale, also made the first female ascent of WoGü (8c) in the Rätikon, with Jacopo Larcher.

Sources: PlanetMountain, 8a.nu, Climax, Climbing History, Instagram (Maggie Kompein)

Cover: sport climbing on a limestone roof at Milhac, France. The climber is not Maggie Kompein and this is not a photo of Speed Intégrale or of the ascent. Photo: Jean Roussie, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons, edited.