I spent all of last November nursing a tweaked A2 pulley, which meant my hangboard was off-limits. Instead of just sitting on the couch, I started doing floor work—mostly because I was bored and needed to feel like I was still training for the spring season at the Red.
Read this first: Finger training is powerful but risky. Tendons and pulleys adapt far more slowly than muscles, and pushing too hard too soon is the fastest route to injury. If you've been climbing less than a year, your best "finger training" is simply climbing more. Treat the hangboard with patience and respect.
Start with what's safe: antagonists and core. Focus on push-ups for chest and triceps, and planks or hollow-body holds to stabilize your core, which prevents the 'swinging' effect on overhanging walls.
Home Training for Climbers: Core, Antagonists, and Finger Safety
Consistency over months is what actually makes you stronger.
Train smart, then put it to use. Find a gym or route on climbing.place →
I still struggle with the urge to overdo it, but I've learned that skipping a session when my fingers feel tweaky is usually the only way I actually make it to the next trip without another injury.
