Goal: Volume is the forgotten foundation - 30 easy problems build capacity that hard sessions can later cash in.
Protocol
- Work: 1 easy problem (approx. 90 seconds including walking)
- Rest: 90 seconds
- Problems: 15 per set
- Sets: 2
- Rest between sets: 10 minutes
Rules
- Drop the grade: Go at least 4 grades below your limit. If you climb V6, you are doing V1s and V2s. If you fall, the set is ruined.
- Force variety: Don't just camp on the steep board. Force yourself onto the slab and the awkward corners you usually avoid.
- Focus on silent feet: Every placement must be perfect. If your shoe makes a sound on the plastic, you're rushing.
Ideal early season, after injury, or as the second session in a week. Finish tired but not wrecked - you should be able to repeat it in 48 hours.