Horní Žleb on the left bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 70 routes on six towers – Černý kámen, Strážce Vrásníku, Soví věž, Hornožlebský kámen, Dvojče and Kalich. The climbing is traditional sandstone with rings and textile protection, in both sun and shade; grades from 2 to 7/7+.
Part of 7. Elbe Valley – left bank, 02. Horní Žleb has 71 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 7/7+. Explore its 6 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route on sun, Route in shadow, Fixed belay.
Rules
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
5
Severní cesta
On the North side of the E tower, up the wall and gully to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2
Dávná cesta,
From the North into the chimney between the main summit and the pre-summit and via that… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Cesta osamělých poutníků
To the right on the North face of the main summit upwards to the recess and via that to… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Varianta Dávná cesta
From the chimney on the South side briefly to the left and along the cut up the wall to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Severní cesta
To the left on the North side over steps to the balcony. Up the wall along the crack cut… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Náhodná cesta
To the right of the Easy Route over overgrown steps to the shelf and from the right up… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Jižní cesta
To the right on the South side over an overhang, up the wall and through a crack to the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
2
Snadná cesta
To the left on the South side via a chimney to the pre-summit. Step across to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Údolní cesta
In the middle of the valley (South) wall via a slanting chimney-gully to the balcony.… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Údolní hrana
Along the valley edge over an overhang to the balcony and like 'Celebration of Bells' to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Slavnost zvonků
On the NE side from the right above the overhang diagonally left to the edge. Continue… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5+
Zkratka
South wall to the left of the Plateau Edge up the wall via BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4-
Severovýchodní spára
To the right of the start of the Forest Forge route, up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
5
Jihozapádní stěna
In the middle on the S side, up the wall and cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Náhorní hrana
From the start, also a path along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Kovařova varianta
As 'Blacksmith's Apprentice' to the balcony and up the wall to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Taky cesta
From the plateau to the left onto the balcony and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jihozapádní cesta
To the left of the 'Spiderweb Variation', up the S wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Údolní cesta
In the middle from the valley side, via the slanted crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Pavučinova varianta
To the right on the South side through the crack to the balcony and further along the… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
2+
Kovářův tovaryš
To the left in the SW wall, up the slanted chimney to the balcony. Through the chimney on… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Pravá údolní cesta
Completely to the right on the valley side, up the crack to the balcony and then as the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Údolní hrana
Up the right valley edge via hour-glasses and steps to the balcony. Then as the Valley… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Levá jižní cesta
Completely to the left on the S side from the base of the wall, through a depression to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
6-
Turmalín
In the north wall, up the wall via K and higher up the wall along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
3
Kovářovo žebírko
To the right of the NE edge onto the ledge. Up the curved rib to the balcony, then a… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay
2+
Lesní kovárna
Via the prominent north corner over the block and through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay