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Climbing at 07. Centrální část

211 routes
16 areas
3–9+ grades

The central part of the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers more than 210 routes on 16 towers and walls – the largest include Baldachýn, Malá and Velká bašta, Trůn, Zrcadlo and Letní rezidence. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings, glue-in bolts and textile protection, often in the sun; grades from 3 to 9+.

Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 07. Centrální část has 211 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 9+. Explore its 16 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Route on sun.

Rules

- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021

Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park

  • Climb in daylight only.
  • Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
  • Jumps between towers are not allowed.
  • First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
  • Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.

Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Parking

50.84856, 14.22209

7/7+
Zrcadlo
Along the right edge via 3 K to the balcony and further along the edge (3 K) to the ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Zrcadlo
Via the “Light Year” route to the ledge. Directly up the wall via 4K to the summit. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Zrcadlo
Left of “Light Year” up the wall (K) to the 2nd K of “Light Year”. Continue via this to… Rock Climbing
6-
Zrcadlo
Via the crack left of the “Mirror Edge” and diagonally right up the wall to the K of the… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Zrcadlo
From the 1st ring of the Light Year route, up the small wall left of the corner via 2 BH… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Zrcadlo
As “Light Year” via K and 2BH, then right via 2K to the ledge. Diagonally right via 5K to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8+/9-
Zrcadlo
Through the middle of the valley wall via K into the corner and diagonally left to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Zrcadlo
In the left part of the wall via 3 bolts (K) to the edge. Along it via 2 bolts (K) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Zrcadlo
Right of the “Mirror Flash” route via BH to the ring of the Mirror Edge, over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Zrcadlo
In the right part of the Mirror via 2BH to the ledge, belay. Right and via the chimney to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zrcadlo
From the S, through the middle of the pillar in the left part of the wall via BH and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Zrcadlo
In the left part of the wall, up the steps under a smooth corner, then to the end and… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Zrcadlo
From the 5th bolt (K) of the “Devil's Sauce” route along the edge (2K) and right to the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Zrcadlo
Along with the “Looks are Deceiving” route via the corner (or initially left along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Letní rezidence
To the left of the route "Against the Current" over a bolt onto the fore-rock to 1 piton… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Letní rezidence
From the 4th ring of the Zámecká zahrada (Castle Garden) route traverse right into the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Letní rezidence
Start completely left in the large corner. Left through the wall over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Letní rezidence
Left in the right part of the massif from the block through the wall over 3 bh to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Letní rezidence
In the large corner to the right of the Seance route through the wall over 3 bh to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Letní rezidence
Left of Seance along the edge over 4 bh to the abseil bh. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Letní rezidence
Slabby wall over 5K to the summit. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Letní rezidence
High in the corner of the north face over two bh directly to the summit to the abseil… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Letní rezidence
Left in the wall in the middle of the pillar (BH) left and over 4BH to the BH of the… Rock Climbing
6
Sluneční zahrada
Via the Café Espresso route to the 1st bolt. Further through the corner notch to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Sluneční zahrada
Right wall (2 bolts), slightly from the right into the slab and through it (3rd bolt,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Sluneční zahrada
By opposition to the small balcony and right up the wall, later along the blunt edge (3… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Sluneční zahrada
Through the corner in the middle of the wall to the 1st bolt. Left onto the edge and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Nešvar
To the left above the lower pillar of Nešvaru from the small balcony, where the Švar… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Nešvar
From the valley's lower rock formation approximately through the middle of the wall over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Nešvar
To the left of the valley's lower rock formation from the lowest point by the wall,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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