Krkavčí ostroh on the right bank of the Elbe Valley offers 180 routes on 19 towers and walls – the largest include Klárka, Planeta, Krkavec, Poseidon, Kamzičí hrot and Netopýr. There are traditional and sport sandstone routes with rings and textile protection on vertical walls; grades from 2 to 9+.
Part of 6. Elbe Valley – right bank, 10. Krkavčí ostroh has 180 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 9+. Explore its 19 crags and sectors below.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Sport Climbing, Vertical wall.
Rules
- Do not interfere with vegetation on the rocks, do not remove stones, do not clean cracks - Do not disturb nesting birds, respect restrictions, use marked accesses - Magnesium and chemical agents are prohibited, climb on dry rock in daylight - Do not use belay devices that damage the rock, hard shoes, do not leave public goods - No jumping between massifs and towers - Slackline prohibited - First ascents on some rocks are subject to restrictions - see Nature Protection Document: General Measures 2021
Nature conservation: Climbing permitted year-round. Nature Conservation Document: General Measure 2021, map 2021, authority Nature Conservation Administration of the Bohemian Switzerland National Park
- Climb in daylight only.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- Jumps between towers are not allowed.
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (right bank: spravce-labak-pravy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
Some crags are closed from 1 February to 30 June for nesting birds. Respect local signs and any extended closures; current status in the ČHS crag database.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
Klárka Planeta Krkavec Poseidon Kamzičí hrot Netopýr Klepeta Casterlyova skála Sektor 113 Mudrc Deštivá stěna Čtverec Gešnek Jezevec Krkavčí stěna Kamzičí stěna Tři sestry Panťáček Sahula
6-
Jihozápadní hrana
Left edge of the massif 2 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Varianta( Severní cesta)
From the large block on the plateau side, traverse right behind the edge into the crack. Rock Climbing
9/9+
Medvědice
From the plateau side via the sharp edge directly over 2BH to the 2nd ring of the route … Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Severovýchodní hrana
From the large block on the plateau side by double stacking into a short crack, along it… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Přímá varianta (Střídavé oblačno )
From the 1st K of the route "Partly Cloudy" directly over the overhang and up the wall (K… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Jeden pokus
From the block, briefly over the overhanging NE edge, higher up left via a ledge and an… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Střídavě oblačno
To the right in the S wall from the block, up the wall to the right to the 1st K. Briefly… Rock Climbing
6-
Jihozápadní hrana
To the left in the S wall onto a ledge and briefly left onto the SW edge. First up the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Přímá jižní cesta
Via the "South Route" without building (or without artificial aid/aid climbing) to K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Jižní cesta
To the left in the S wall from the block (standing) to K. Up the wall to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Údolní cesta
Through the middle of the valley wall under the overhang, left onto the edge and through… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Severozápadní stěna
To the right in the NW wall along the rib, higher up directly up the NW wall over K to… Rock Climbing
5
Severní cesta
Via the "Old Route" to the first balcony, (standing) under the overhang and through a… Rock Climbing
4+
Stará cesta
Via the chimney at the NE edge to the balcony, traverse right and up a small wall into a… Rock Climbing
6
Z ruky do huby
At the right edge, via the chimney to the ledge and along the edge over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7-/7
Piercing
Up the narrow NW wall over 3 BH, higher up left into a hollow to the abseil point. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
7/7+
Otevřená kritika
About 8m to the left of the right edge, up the wall over 3 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Nástupová varianta (Veřejné tajemství)
From the start of the route "Open Criticism", traverse left to the 1st K of the route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6+/7-
Několik vět
Approach about 8m to the right of the left valley edge. Up the wall, then diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6+/7-
Hledání pravdy
To the left of the blunt valley edge, 3m up the wall and right into the chimney. Up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
8/8+
Veřejné tajemství
Through the middle of the wall over 3 K to the 3rd K of the route "Searching for Truth"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
6
Technická pětka
As "Equatorial Edge" to the 1st K. Diagonally right up the wall to the 2nd K and straight… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
9+
Svatá cesta
To the right of the "Rašení jara" (Spring Budding) route, via an overhanging wall over 2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Danger
8/8+
3 sind 2 zuviel
From the 1st bolt (BH) of the Synové výčepu route, via the edge over 3 bolts (BH) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
9/9+
Synové výčepu
In the valley wall, from 1 bolt (BH) to the left and further up the center of the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Womenizer
To the right of the Frýdlantská to Poseidon route, up the wall via 5 bolts (BH) to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8/8+
Vážka
To the left of Synové výčepu, via the largest overhang, up the wall and gully/chimney… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Cesta slepých ptáků
In the center of the valley wall, via a crack and fissure to the ring (K). Up the wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Údolní cesta
As "Path of Blind Birds", via a crack to the end, traverse left, and up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2