Part of 07. U Zloděje a Atlantidy, Alcatraz has 14 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 5+ to 9/9+. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Fixed belay, Rock Climbing, Sport Climbing, Route on sun, Textile belay.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
7+/8-
Bang! Bang!
In the right part of the massif between the routes "Limited Edition" and "On Your Own"… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
7+/8-
Limitovaná edice
Through the center of the wall to the right of the prominent corner via 4 BH under the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
6+/7-
Na vlastní pěst
All the way to the right on the massif, up the wall via 2 BH to the inclined corner,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Geniální únik
Start with a striking corner in the middle of the massif. Follow it and further up along… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
5+
Bacha na bachaře
Left wall of the large corner along the edge via 3 BH to the 4th BH of the "Ass to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
8+/9-
Hustej nářez
Start with a chimney like the "Beware of the Warden" route and traverse right to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
9/9+
Vize
Via "Limited Edition" to the 4th BH and then up the wall directly under the ceiling,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
7-/7
Zlatá horečka
To the right of the "Thieves of Time" route, through a crack to the end (loop). Through a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7+/8-
Zloději času
Wall to the right of the "Factor X" route via 6 BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Prdelí ke zdi
Slightly sloping wall to the left of the large corner via 5 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Golden Gate
To the left of the "Ass to the Wall" route, via the wall through 4 BH to the rappel BH. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
8-/8
X-Drive
From the 1st BH of the route "Factor X", to the right up the wall via 4 BH to the belay… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
X- man
Up the wall to the left of the route "Faktor X", first directly and then to the right… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7/7+
Faktor X
Start completely in the left part of the wall with a diagonally running crack. Through it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3