Part of Ostrov - 3 - jižní část, Balkánský pilíř has 8 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3 to 6. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Fixed belay, Textile belay, Vertical wall, Spare Route.
Rules
OVK: Use magnesium according to sandstone rules, first ascents only with the consent of the administrator.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
4+
Noční pašeráci
Via the western rounded edge over a bolt to the saddle and freely, n. v. Rock Climbing
6
Vytleskávač hadů
Through the center of the south face to a hole. Over the K face to a saddle and freely, n… Rock Climbing
5+
Sarajevská
On the left in the west face to a bolt, then along a rounded edge up the face to a saddle… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4-
Jižní spára
Via a wide crack to the saddle and then up the face, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route