On the Salzburg side, the Berchtesgaden Alps take in the great limestone massifs south and west of Salzburg – the Hochkönig, the Steinernes Meer and the Untersberg among them – with alpine multi-pitch routes as well as valley sport crags. A classic on the Hochkönig is the Torsäule (2,587 m), whose south-west wall is split by a gully: its Schluchtkante (4, 310 m, 12 pitches, first climbed by A. Precht and partners in 1998) offers rare steep, airy climbing at a moderate grade on solid rock with reddish slabs near the top. Many other walls in the group carry long limestone routes in remote, high terrain.
For the Hochkönig, take the Tauern motorway to Bischofshofen and drive to Mühlbach am Hochkönig and on to the paid car park at the Arthurhaus (1,502 m), also reachable by train to Bischofshofen and bus; the Torsäule approach takes about two hours via the Mitterfeldalm. Lower pitches may be wet in spring or after long rain, snow can linger in shaded gullies, and descents over loose terrain are tricky when wet. The main season is summer to early autumn.
Part of Salzburg, Berchtesgaden Alps has 246 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 2 to 10. Explore its 69 crags and sectors below.
Often climbed in July, August, September.