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Climbing at Centrální stěna

29 routes
3+–9- grades

Part of Vlčtejn, Centrální stěna has 29 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 3+ to 9-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Traditional Climbing, Friends, Fixed belay, Vertical wall.

Rules

The area is on private land. By agreement with the owner of the castle and adjacent land, climbing is permitted. Access to the rocks and climbing is exclusively at your own risk!!! Observe all safety precautions and wear a helmet - the castle is in poor technical condition.

The ČHS rules for Czech rock areas and the local regional commission's rules apply: do not alter the rock or holds, do not climb on wet rock, and follow ČHS principles for first ascents.

Parking

49.61311, 13.49564

5
Centrální stěna
From the "Koutová" balcony, traverse to the "Vlčtejnská hrana" to the first piton.… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
3+
Centrální stěna
Small boulder to the right of the chimney "Písečné cesty". Then straight up through the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4-
Centrální stěna
Start by climbing about 2 meters up a small rock outcrop (same as "Sokolíková var." and … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6+
Centrální stěna
Start on approximately a 2m foothill (identical to "Sokolíková var." and "Krátká sp.").… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Centrální stěna
Along the edge of the pillar (bolt) upwards to the ledge (same as "Short SP") under the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7
Centrální stěna
From the northeastern base, slightly left upwards via a small wall to a crack that is… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4
Centrální stěna
To the right of "Správcovské" (Management) is a widening crack on the ledge. Further to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
9-
Centrální stěna
Center of the vertical smooth slab over 2 bolts. Possible to reach "Sokolík" or "12501"… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6+/7-
Centrální stěna
In the right part of the smooth slab and partially along the edge to the bolt via a slope… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Centrální stěna
By a small chimney in the corner of the east wall upwards to its end, then across steps… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
4-
Centrální stěna
To the right of the starting point "12501" about 2m to the ledge. From there, to the left… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
6+
Centrální stěna
Similarly, to the corner of the notch as "Klikatá" (Zigzag), from there straight up… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
7+
Centrální stěna
Through the center of the protruding small pillar to the traverse crack (hook), through… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Centrální stěna
Climbing a narrow crack upwards towards a wedged stone (sling). Then through the crack … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
5+
Centrální stěna
Start in the middle of the smooth wall between "Bratrská" and "Sokolík" using small holds… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6
Centrální stěna
Start on the eastern edge, about 4m to the right of the edge shared belay with "Klikatá" … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +3
6
Centrální stěna
Overhanging corner to horizontal notch, traverse left (bolt shared with "Rytířská"). Then… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6+
Centrální stěna
Consistent with "Knightly" up to the summit overhang. From there, directly along the edge… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
7-
Centrální stěna
In the middle of the wall between "Rytířská" and "Klikatá", via one bolt to a shared… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Centrální stěna
Directly upwards towards a crack. An "Alpinist" wall to the right along the "A. c."… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
6-
Centrální stěna
Start about a meter to the left of the eastern edge of the Rytířská path, straight up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5
Centrální stěna
The same as "Chimney" up to the overhang. Then through the left part of the overhang … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
5-
Centrální stěna
Kolmou wall along the crack into the open chimney, up through it to the overhang. Then… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends
4+
Centrální stěna
In the middle of the SE wall, a short chimney (Bh) under an overhang, then up a crack in… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
7
Centrální stěna
Directly in the middle between the routes "Sprinkled Head" and "Quarrelsome var." across… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
5+
Centrální stěna
Directly under the large overhang (here Bh from "Castle") and the right part of the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +2
5-
Centrální stěna
Start to the left of "Alpinistická," up the small wall along "A. c." to a sloping… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
5
Centrální stěna
Start just to the right of the southern edge with a crack to below the overhang (bolt).… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Friends +1
6-
Centrální stěna
Start along the south edge, then under the overhang, over the overhang upwards from the… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Laid wall

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