Part of 05. Levá Čirta, Čertova hlava has 11 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 4- to 7+/8-. Routes are listed below with grade, style, and community notes.
Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Route in shadow, Overhang, Fixed belay.
Rules
First ascents only after prior approval of the rock manager, e-mail: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz. The valid conditions for approving first ascents are here.
- Top-rope only where it will not damage the rock or fixed gear (own quickdraw as anchor, no rope friction on the rock).
- First ascents only with the area administrator's approval (left bank: spravce-labak-levy@seznam.cz).
- Unapproved fixed equipment is banned.
The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.
- Chalk is banned.
- No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
- Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
- Do not alter the rock surface.
- Abseil from the summit rings.
Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.
5
Tři krát šest
From the start of the route "Path of the Sages of Zion" via the crack to the first ledge.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Matzeho lenochodí farma
From the plateau side traverse right to the overhanging edge. Along it (K) directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Cesta mudrců ze Sionu
Along the SE edge to the 1st K and the wall to the right onto the ledge (loop). Over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Ďáblův úpis
From the W over the overhang, up the wall and slab over BH directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7+/8-
Kam čert nemůže...
From the lowest point on the valley side at the blunt edge, traverse the slab to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +3
7-/7
Zlaté vlasy
Along the valley edge to the balcony and via a small ridge to K. Over the overhang and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Člověčina
From the NW through a crack to the balcony and up the overhanging edge over BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
4-
Údolní cesta
From the uphill side traverse left to the catwalk, along it left to the NW side. Up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Novicova cesta
From the start of "Stará cesta" directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Jihozápadní cesta
From the boulder on the SW side to the catwalk and over the overhang to a small platform.… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
4+
Stará cesta
From the saddle diagonally right to the catwalk. Over the overhang and up a small wall to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2