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Climbing at Bohemian Paradise

17323 routes
8 areas
1–12 grades

Bohemian Paradise lies about 90 km north-east of Prague between Turnov and Jičín. In 1955 it became the country's first protected landscape area (95 km² at first, 181.17 km² since 2002), and the 830 km² Bohemian Paradise Geopark is the only UNESCO Global Geopark in the Czech Republic. The landscape is made of sandstone rock towns shaped by wind, water and frost – the Prachov Rocks (a reserve since 1933), the Hrubá Skála rock town, Suché skály and the Klokočí rocks – set among volcanic hills such as Kozákov and the basalt plugs crowned by Trosky castle ruin, with the castles of Kost, Valdštejn, Hrubý Rohozec and Hrubá Skála.

Climbing is on towers and walls of soft sandstone, mostly 30–40 m high and occasionally up to about 80 m. The history goes back to the early 20th century: Mnich, the highest tower at Prachov, was the first tower climbed in the rock town, its Old Route climbed on 10 April 1907 by J. Hendrych and J. Kubín. Protection is classic sandstone – widely spaced rings, knots and slings over hourglasses and horns; metal gear and chalk are banned and climbing on wet sandstone is not allowed. Towers have rappel rings on top and most climbs need a single 60 m rope. The main season is spring to autumn; Prachov is reached by bus via Jičín (about 5 km away), and climbing club members enter free.

Part of Czech Republic, Bohemian Paradise has 17323 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 12. Explore its 8 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Vertical wall, Route in shadow.

Rules

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection – fixed gear and textile protection (slings, knots) only.
  • Climb ground-up and on dry rock only.
  • Parties of no more than 5 climbers.
  • Abseil only from fixed anchors.
  • Reach the crags only on public and marked paths.
  • Do not damage the rock or plants, do not disturb nesting birds and keep noise down.
  • First ascents usually need prior approval.

On most rocks climbing is allowed only from 1 April to 31 October. Check current status and exceptions (hruboskalsko.cz, ČHS crag database) before you go.

Northern areas 4849 routes Hruboskalsko centre 3462 routes Prachov Rocks 3007 routes Rocks on Mužský 2548 routes Hruboskalsko outer area 2434 routes Hruboskalsko valleys 718 routes Northern areas outside the PLA 290 routes Borecké skály 15 routes
Sort by: Recently updated Highest rated Grade: easiest first Grade: hardest first Name (A–Z)
7
Rezavá stěna
Right part of the overhanging wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7
Rezavá stěna
First right, then diagonally left below the 'Sokolík'. Traverse left and then a dynamic… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Rezavá stěna
From the courtyard via a narrow crack directly below the summit wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Mnich
To the right of the 'Normal Route' up the crack and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +2
5+
Mnich
Up the wall to the right of the right edge of the western chimney (ring) to the ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Mnich
From the ring diagonally left along the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Mnich
From the plateau below the summit wall, through the center of the wall over the overhang,… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6
Mnich
Step onto the edge and follow it to the ring. Through the hollow or to the right behind… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
8/8+
Mnich
The start is the same as the "Southeast Edge" route. Along the edge under the overhang,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Mnich
Up the corner crack (piton) under the roof, traverse left to the edge and up the crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
7-/7
Mnich
Via the "Coup in a Banana Republic" route to the spike in the small corner (sling).… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Mnich
To the left of the carved slab in the center of the wall, up the crack over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Mnich
Via the CORNER ROUTE under the overhang (slings) directly over the overhang (3rd ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
8
Mnich
Via the 'Corner Route' under the roof, traverse left behind the edge and up the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6+/7-
Mnich
Along the NW edge (NORTHERN ROUTE) to a small balcony and along the edge over the ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Mnich
Along the NW edge to the middle of the tower (belay), diagonally down left to the crack… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Mnich
Along the sloping ledge to the right and up the wall directly to the ring of the Direct… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +3
7-/7
Mnich
Via the "DIRECT NORTH FACE" route to the ledge by the larch. Up the wall to the left of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
?
Mnich
From the plateau below the S face, turn left onto the edge and follow it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4
Mnich
From the N face and chimney or chimney from W to the plateau below the summit wall. Left… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
2
Liščí věž
Along the northeast edge to the summit.
2
Liščí věž
6
Rajská věž
Via the east wall diagonally left to the southeast edge and along it to the summit.
6-
Bránička
From the north via a chimney, higher up via the wall. Rock Climbing
2
Bránička
Rock Climbing
7
Rajská věž
Along the west edge (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Bránička
Rock Climbing
7
Neználek
From the northwest upwards to the right by hand-traversing a ledge above an overhang and…
6
Skluzavka
Via the wall along the northeast edge. Rock Climbing
6-
Skluzavka
From the northwest via a corner, higher up via a chimney/corner to a ring, right to the… Rock Climbing

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